Do you sometimes doubt when choosing the processing times for the InLei® Lash Filler treatment? Do you sometimes wonder if the time you chose was too long or maybe not enough?
Today we thought we would try to simplify this for you. In every chemical reaction of the perm or dye, there are two main factors that we need to pay attention to:
- Structure of the hair
- Porosity of the hair
Let’s start with the Porosity: what it is and how to determine the hair porosity?
Porosity is a measurement of the hair’s ability to absorb and hold moisture. It can also be described as the indicator of how easily moisture can penetrate the hair.
Our hair can have high, medium or low porosity. To understand which category the hair you are treating belongs to, we firstly have a look at the cuticle.
- With low porosity (low absorption capacity) - the scales of our cuticles adhere very well and the hair appears very shine. It is very difficult for the chemicals to penetrate inside these hairs, so we always need to keep in mind that we need to increase processing times for perming solutions and for the dyes.
- Medium porosity - this category describes the majority of the hairs.
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High porosity (high absorption capacity) – when the scales of the cuticle are raised. This does not allow moisture to stay for long, so at every opportunity the hair tries to absorb as much as possible. This hair is visibly fragile and dull (usually it is hair that has been badly treated and damaged) but remember that a good part of curly hair also has high porosity! During the absorption of the perm (Lash Form 1) you will notice that this hair absorbs the solution very quick (which from intense white becomes transparent milky white).
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TO SUMMARY:
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→ shiny hair = low porosity = leave solutions on for longer
→ dull hair = high porosity = leave solutions on for less time because they are
absorbed very quickly
STRUCTURE OF THE LASHES
Starting from the porosity we can also analyze the elasticity, because those two factors depend on each other. The ability to maintain humidity, in fact, ensures that the keratin remains elastic, especially at the roots.
Here are three categories we divide the hair into:
• Soft hair – often this type is very obedient during the application on the shield, but sometimes it can become rebellious: in some cases the hair is so soft and obedient that it creates “waves” that are very difficult to straighten. In general, these hairs rarely escape from the shield when the first (permanent) solution is in place.
• Medium hair – this is an obedient hair, it stays on the shield perfectly and usually falls within the medium porosity. Sometimes during the application time of the first solution some hairs can pop off. Be careful, in these cases they must be put back in place with the “spider web” method.
• Coarse and rigid hair – this type of hair shows a lot of resistance to the curl and we should a lot of fixing lash glue to keep it stay on the shield. We often call it “glassy” (as if it were made of glass) because sometimes it also has a low porosity and therefore is very shiny. If you do not use enough glue many will pop off during the application time of Form 1.
PROCESSING TIMES OF FORM 1
Here is a table with the recommended processing times, as you can see it was created taking into consideration both factors that we have talked about: porosity and structure of the hair.
